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HOW TO SURVIVE INDIA (AND WHY IT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE)

Spoiler alert: No Google Maps, but plenty of spices and emotions.

Word:

Danilo Mašković

Photography:

Stefan Miloš


Date:

15.12.2023.

HOW YOU END UP IN A COUNTRY YOU NEVER PLANNED TO VISIT

How do you end up packing your bags for a destination none of your friends have ever been to? If you’re like Stefan and me, the answer is: without planning. To be clear, this doesn’t mean the trip itself wasn’t (very) carefully planned—it just means the decision to go happened spontaneously, unexpectedly, like one of those ideas that pop into your head, and instead of dismissing it, you let it grow.

I was casually texting with some friends we often travel with, and as we were listing places none of the four of us had ever been to—which, trust me, is harder than it sounds—I pulled out a wild card I had been keeping in my back pocket for years: India.

I had always wanted to see it up close. Even though it was completely different from anything familiar, India attracted me for several reasons: first, its aesthetic—one that I doubt could leave anyone indifferent. Then, the endless stream of dreamy imagery from books and films, always filtered through the eyes of Westerners like Kipling and Bertolucci, whose visions I wanted to compare with my own—because capturing a mind like theirs isn’t easy. And finally, the ultimate element: uncertainty. The unknown. That part of the world that had never been part of my firsthand experience, only a myth.

“I HAVE NO IDEA WHY I SIGNED UP FOR THIS”

Stefan, at that moment, wasn’t exactly thrilled about the trip—and that’s an understatement. Our friends, who had been listening to his doubts for months between the day we booked the trip as a group and the day we actually left, can confirm that he kept saying: “I have no idea why I needed this in my life.”

ARCHITECTURE: A MUGHAL FAIRYTALE IN SPICE COLORS

The first thing that surprised us—mainly due to our lack of prior knowledge of Indian history and its art—was just how present Islamic architectural elements are. This particularly struck Stefan, who, as an architect, was mesmerized by the absolute refinement of the ornamentation, the endless subtle variations of patterns, the lines, and the spatial dynamics.

Of course, ten days is nowhere near enough to become an expert—we barely scratched the surface of what this endlessly fascinating country has to offer. Most of the buildings we saw date back to the 12th–17th centuries, from the Mughal era. Still, it was more than enough to open our eyes to an entirely new world and just how different it is from what we in Europe and the West associate with those centuries.

We explored the famous Golden Triangle: Delhi, Jaipur in Rajasthan, and Agra in Uttar Pradesh.

Red sandstone is everywhere, quite literally making India a pink-hued land, along with marble. Airy spaces and water elements were another common feature in all the buildings we visited. Every space had either a fountain or a pool, adding a sensory dimension—both visually and acoustically.

DEBUNKING MYTHS: CHAOS, COWS AND NETFLIX FILTERS

Yes, monkeys and cows roam freely. Yes, the crowds are overwhelming, as are the countless sounds. Yes, the streets do sometimes look like a movie set. But India is so much more than the preconceptions we carry before stepping foot on its soil.

For starters, there is no such thing as “one India,” not formally and certainly not experientially. It’s a collection of 28 independent states and 8 territories, each with its own identity—even different languages. Although we only visited a tiny fraction of it and are well aware that things vary greatly from region to region, we felt safe everywhere.

And something else followed us everywhere—the scents. Riding through narrow city streets in rickshaws, we passed by shops and market stalls overflowing with the aroma of incense, jasmine, and all kinds of fragrant spices. Everything was incredibly clean, and flowers were omnipresent. Indians weave bright yellow, orange, and pink flower garlands as offerings to the gods.

PEOPLE: THE BIGGEST PLOT TWIST OF THE ENTIRE TRIP

You might be surprised—just as we were—to learn that India doesn’t have that many foreign tourists. Or rather, it doesn’t have the massive hordes of international tourists you see elsewhere. Most of the people traveling in India are Indians themselves, and everything is designed to cater to them. We were often stopped by locals on the street who wanted to take pictures with us—because many of them had never seen Westerners in real life.

This is one of the main reasons why I wouldn’t recommend visiting India on your own. While Indians are incredibly friendly and welcoming, having someone who knows the terrain, the people, and how things work makes all the difference, and yet, beyond the stunning architecture, the colors, the flavors, and the aromatic streets, the people left the deepest impression on us. One moment, in particular, changed everything.

Visiting a rural school was not on our original itinerary, but it turned out to be the most unforgettable experience of the trip.

Tucked away in winding village streets, a small, single-story house with just three classrooms—only one of which had desks and chairs, while the other two had children sitting on the floor—served as a school for about fifty students. In India, primary school is not legally mandatory; it is a privilege.

The children we met, dressed in crisp pink shirts that made up their uniform, welcomed us with a warmth and joy so pure that it’s hard to describe. The surge of emotions we felt is difficult to put into words without sounding overly sentimental. It’s something that has to be experienced rather than explained.

India is its people. After everything, they are what leaves you speechless—the way they treat each other and the way they treat strangers. Their generosity, openness, and spontaneity, combined with their sharp intelligence, make this country truly one of a kind.

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