COMPLICATED AT FIRST, EFFORTLESS ON SECOND GLANCE

At first, it seems daunting. There’s a viral clip—wind tossing a plane like a toy as it barely lands. This is the runway at Cristiano Ronaldo Madeira Airport (yes, the airport is named after the living football legend). Everyone sent me this video when I told them where I was going “for the fall.” If only they knew how much that phrase annoys me—that’s how we refer to a vacation. No wonder people are burning out en masse—no one is actually resting from the self-inflicted subculture of “walking on water.” It’s not easy. Honestly, I didn’t even feel the landing—I was staring at the strange land that finally appeared after a long flight. What a scene!

The main (and only) city is Funchal, and it’s an incredibly relaxed place. Entirely Portuguese in aesthetics, but with a modernist twist of the new world. Everything looks cool because it blends perfectly with the natural surroundings. There is contrast, but they haven’t (yet) reached Monaco levels of density. We can thank Columbus, the empress, various exiled rulers (and, I assume, creative directors who would be the next settlers) for this remoteness.

The first encounter with the city is enchanting. Believe me, this is not a cliché—I genuinely can’t think of a better word. So much greenery, blooming flowers, and scents in the middle of autumn. This literally doesn’t exist anywhere else in Europe. The ocean breeze, the sun, and shifting clouds that appear and disappear create an incredibly personal atmosphere. A play of light, like those Louis Vuitton runways that cost a fortune. Exactly like that, only more natural, and best of all—no one is suffering mentally. Quite the opposite!

Is there a better way to get to know a city than by sitting in a local café? I can smell a good café even on Google Maps, but we simply stumbled upon this one. No planned routes. Terra – Food Concept feels like the island version of fine dining, only here you can actually finish your meal, and every dish is decorated with flowers. Local wine replaces water, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. Like Santorini, Madeira has a well-developed wine industry, and the volcanic soil gives the wine a unique aroma.

The city is lively but incredibly laid-back. No one is rushing anywhere. Color is everywhere—whether in the sky or at the market stalls. These real colors shimmer in every possible and impossible shade. Every euro was worth it, and when you add everything up—it’s cheaper than therapy and delivers better and faster “results.”

After a casual chat with the staff at this place, I immediately realized that a new discipline was on the horizon—hiking. Though it had never crossed my mind before, I understood that I was in a truly special place and that there was no other way to see its wonders. I told myself (and Stefan): Let’s go!

ZEN AT THIRD GLANCE

It felt like preparing for New Year’s Eve. I didn’t even need to check what I packed—I knew all my clothes were for different activities, mostly stylish ones. Fortunately, at least my sneakers were appropriate. No matter, I tied my scarf from memory—like I learned in the scouts—wore a linen shirt and shorts, and quickly made it to the first destination.

When someone first told me to go hiking, I thought it was a joke. Me, who never strays far from the beach and cocktail bars, now dressed for what looked more like a Sunday lunch? But fine, challenge accepted.

The São Lourenço trail was first—a landscape so breathtaking it’s compared to the Atacama Desert. In this case, you literally lose your breath—with all the uphill climbs, it feels like your lungs are 384,000 kilometers below you.

It’s fascinating how nature tests you—do you experience it as enjoyment, or does it feel like a mini military drill? The first part of the trail gently winds through red rocks with stunning ocean views, but as you go deeper, the terrain becomes more challenging. Sometimes it felt nearly impossible to continue, but with every step, I realized—just like in life—nothing is truly impossible if you give yourself the chance to overcome the first obstacles.

The question of the day became life-changing: do I really want this view (let alone the real experience), or is TikTok enough? After all, no app can give you the feeling of wind in your hair and the scent of salt. I became increasingly aware of the contrast between what was expected of me in daily life and the freedom nature offers—a freedom that allows you to reset, slow down, and put everything into perspective. Your choice.

And the view from the top? Worth every short breath! But honestly, a café halfway up would be great. And they had one—with alcohol and desserts. After replenishing my mental batteries, drenched in sweat, I jumped straight into the ocean. Water temperature? 24°C. Air temperature? 22°C. That day, Madeira had already earned its second name—The Island of Eternal Spring.

I rewarded myself with a boat ride back—because I wasn’t about to endure a return “flight to the moon.”

If you think São Lourenço tests endurance, wait until you see 25 Fontes. This time, it’s an extreme version of meditation. It starts off gently—trees, birds, an atmosphere like my yoga instructor Lika Grey creates when she “guides me on a journey” every Monday and Wednesday. But then you realize—no one is here to ground you. The trail leads through wild, lush forests, and the scenery looks straight out of a fairytale.

And these Fontes (read: waterfalls)? A spectacle. There are so many that you forget how exhausted you are. Small tip—don’t expect to stay dry. But does that even matter?